This site is in no way affiliated with,connected to,indorsed or recognized by Rokon International (a great bunch of guys) the manufacturer of Rokon motorcycles. DISCLAIMER
I gathered this information from a number of sources. Some of it came from folks who have been riding Rokons since before they were called Rokons. I have provided links to some sites that are must reads for anyone interested in the Rokon. This site is not intended to answer every question a person might have but is rather intended to hit the high points of the most frequently asked questions. DUH...
HOW DO YOU PRONOUNCE ROKON
Here it is from the horses mouth. The following letter was posted to the Rokon World Message Board Forum by Orla Larsen, the founder of Rokon.
Orla 5:35 PM Friday January 22, 1999 To my buddy SYCO: "When starting the
new company to build the TBs I wanted to get a catchy name like Radar or similar, spelled the
same front or back. I had been a professional skier in Canada and had the opportunity to come to
the US and start a new ski area in Vermont, We called it Mt. Snow (actually it was named after
the owner of the land-Reuben Snow) after getting the ski area going, (I was the general manager
and also ski school director) and it became VERY successful, I built a lodge to cater to the winter
and summer business. During the excavation for the main building, the gentleman that we bought
the land from came by to have a look at what we were doing. There were piles of rocks heaped
all over the place from the excavation, and the original land owner said (man this place is really
on the rocks) so that is what we named our lodge. When I was looking for a name for the new TB
company I bastardized On The Rocks to ROCKON, but it did not look good in print, so I changed
it to ROKON and that is how it all got started. Sorry about temporally impaired people that
pronounce it ROWKON, but then the good lord told us to be tolerant!! "
For an excellent story on the history of the Rokon click HERE
HOW DOES IT WORK
The ankle bones' connected to the shin bone, the shin bones' connected to the knee bone........
O.K., let me see if I can explain this. There is a little difference in the bits between the pre 74 model with the Albion transmission and the post 74 model with the plunger transmission but basicly they work the same. Power is transmitted by the motor which is connected to the transmission through a belt drive system. Pre 74 uses a centrifigal engine mounted clutch with a one-way bearing (to accomodate the kick starter) connected to a pully on the input shaft of the transmission. Post 74 uses a Salasbury variable ratio torque convertor system. It has spring loaded ramped pullys that change the primary drive ratio up or down depending on engine speed and vehicle load. Power enters the 3 speed transmission and is transferred via chain on the pre 74 to the rear miter box or in the post 74 through internal gears to the internal miter gears. Still with me ? From there the power is split equally between an output shaft with a sprocket and chain drive to the rear wheel and another output shaft located in the hollow backbone of the frame that drives the front miter box. There is a one-way spring clutch assembly (over-ride spring) located on the output shaft connecting it to the drive shaft that runs forward. The purpose of this assembly is to allow the front wheel to turn faster than the rear wheel so the drive train doesn't bind up while turning since the front wheel has to travel farther hence faster to make the turn. It works kinda like a chinese finger trap. There is a double u-joint between the drive shaft and the front miter box at the steering head pivot point. I've put together a graphic below that shows the layout in both versions. Click on any of the blue links to bring up an exploded view of that component. You can click HERE for a another view of the drivetrain layout for the pre 73 bikes or HERE for the post 73 bikes.
The subject of the proper oil/fuel ratio is probably the NUMBER ONE question that everyone asks and nobody can agree on. The latest owners manual recommends 40:1.
However "in the field" Rokonites are running ratios from 16:1 all the way to 100:1 depending on the type of oil (regular or synthetic) and the time of month. Three things you never want to discuss in polite company are : Religion, Politics and What mix do you recommend?
You would be safe to run a good grade of 2-stroke oil (chainsaw,outboard or motorcycle) at 20:1. A synthetic should be safe at around 50:1. Your milage may vary.
SPARKPLUG TYPE & GAP
The stock plug for the 2-stroke motor is a Champion L90-C Copper Plus. Recently Champion changed the stock number of the L90-C to #896. You can use any brand you prefer that crosses to this number. Gap is .030.
4 to 5 p.s.i.
As with most things related to Rokon maintenence this is subjective. Since the Rokon doesn't have a suspension system it relies on the "squish" of its' tires to smooth out bumps. The higher the pressure the harsher the ride but it steers a little better. The lower the pressure the softer the ride but it steers "mushier". Low pressures can be an asset in sand or mud as it increases the "foot print" area of the tire. You can run on a flat if you have to but you will likely destroy the inner tube in a drum wheel or come off the rim with a spoke wheel. You can buy a low pressure tire guage at most all motorcycle shops and some lawn and garden shops.
MITERBOX/TRANS OIL TYPE AND LEVEL
Here's another subject that borders on voo-doo. The new manual for the plunger type trannies recommends 90w gear oil. The old manuals for the Albion trannies says a 50/50 mix of 30W and chassis grease. Some folks are adding STP or using high dollar synthetic racing lube. These are low speed motorcycles with low speed gearboxes. Just about anything you put in them that is oily and won't dribble out will lubricate them. The correct level for the miterboxes is half way of the cross shaft (viewed through the fill hole in the top. If you overfill them the excess pressure will force the lube out the seals. The plunger trans has a level plug on the back a couple of inches from the bottom. Take out the plug and add lube through the top plug until it runs out the level plug hole. The Albion has a filler cap on the side by the kicker. Fill it up to the bottom of the threads.
WHAT YEAR OR MODEL IS IT
Over the lifespan of the motorcycle we call a Rokon it has had many names and a few different manufacturers. Naturally the systems used for numbering or identifying them is pretty screwed up. Bob Gallager otherwise known as ROKONBOB the founder of the Rokon World web site is making a valiant effort to untangle the mess. If you contact him and provide the chassis number (stamped into the top of the frame under the seat) he might be able to help you to identify it. He also has a good I.D. guide on his web site that lists all the different models. A couple of major changes happened in 74. The transmission was changed from a kick start 3 speed Albion with a side mounted hand shifter to a plunger style transmission with built in rear miter gears. The Albion (which was a small English motorcycle transmission designed in the 30s) used a separate chain driven rear miterbox. Other changes included the addition of a rear disc brake attached to the rear miterbox shaft and a change from a centrifigal clutch primary drive to a Salsbury variable ratio torque converter type drive. This drive was also used on the "MK3-Automatic" model with a jackshaft mounted in place of a transmission. This is also the drive configuration of the RT-140 model. In 77 the gas tank was changed to a plastic type with a single bolt mounting system and the 82031 engine was used instead of the 82007. The 82031 is equipped with electronic ignition and an AC lighting coil. The basic models are:
TrailBreaker-2wd equipped with15" drum wheels
Scout-2wd equipped with 12" spoke wheels
RT-140-Rear wheel drive only with 12" spoked wheels
WHAT KIND OF MOTOR DOES IT USE
Back in the early 60s when the bike was first manufactured as the Nethercutt MK1 it used a Maico and then later a JLO motor. During the last few years under Nethercutt the switch was made to the Chrysler Power Bee 82007 motor that endured until the early 80s when it was replaced by the U.S. Motors 82031 motor. They are both 136cc and rated at 10 HP. The Power Bee design was used in many different applications. Rail saws,generators,dirt compactors,power drills,jack hammers and chainsaws to name a few. Here is an application table showing some of the equipment that use this motor. This is one tough little motor. Chrysler stopped production of the Power Bee and sold the rights to U.S. Motors. Most people feel the old Chryslers were built to tighter tolerances. The 82031 has electronic ignition and an AC lighting coil but is otherwise the same motor. Recently Rokon has begun to offer a choice of either the Honda or Kohler 4-stroke motor. These are basicly small stationary motors usually found in generators or lawn equipment. They are quieter than the 2-stroke motors plus you don't have to mix oil with the gas. There is some talk that Rokon will quit offering a 2-stroke motor due to enviromental regulations.
The actual real keerect color codes are lost in the mists of time. The Nethercutt was a deep forest green (tank&frame). The original Trail Breaker was yellow (tank&frame). The Scout was orange with a silver frame. The Aqua Track was green with yellow wheels. Newer bikes (early 80s to present) are available in red w/silver frame,all black,all green or a new camo color.Here are a few colors that come close to the original:
Allis Chalmers Orange#17132
School Bus Yellow
Case Implement Yellow
WHAT'S IT WORTH
Well, it's worth exactly what someone would pay for it. New ones are $4500 to $5500.
EBAY has them from $400 beaters to $5000 new/used. Plus shipping. Right now $1500 to $2500 is a good price on a GOOD older bike (runs,good tires,not beat up etc.) If you are in the market for a used Rokon there are a few things you want to look for :
Completeness- Things like missing or brokon transmissions,miterboxes,motors and wheels can turn a good deal to crap. It is almost impossible to find parts for an Albion transmission much less find a complete one. The plunger transmission and miterboxes are still available new but are very pricey. Also the clutches used on the Albion bikes are very hard to come by. You can still get the one-way bearing for them but that's it as far as new parts go.
Does it run-It really helps to be mechanicaly handy if you want to buy an old Rokon. Anything you have to farm out is going to cost $$. If you aren't sure about the motor try to have it looked at by a small engine mechanic first. Carb kits are cheap, crankshafts aren't.
Does the front drive work-If the bike runs pull it up to where the front wheel is just touching a vertical surface like a wall or big tree. Now give it some gas and it should start climbing until gravity takes over. If it just digs the rear tire then it probably has a broken over-ride spring or sheared driveshaft pin. It might even have damage in one or both miterboxes. Take this into account.
HOW FAST WILL IT GO
Not very. 15 to 20 mph high gear wide open throttle. You can add a larger carb and taller gears and if you're not too big a fella you can get it up to around 25mph. Of course the whole point of the Rokon is to get you there no matter where "there" is.
Remember the Tortoise and the Hare.
TIRE TYPE & SIZE
The Rokon comes with a choice of 3 wheel types. The most common type is a 15" tube type aluminum drum wheel that can hold 4.5 gal of your choice of liquid (gas,water,scotch, etc.) or be left empty to provide flotation. The most common size tire is the 6.70x15 Goodyear Shur-Trac implement tire. This is the familiar "V" lug tractor tire. Recently Goodyear has come out with another tread design in this tire that has a little better "side" traction, it is a 5.90X15 and has a "cup" tread design. Recently Rokon has introduced a "12 aluminum drum wheel as an option. The other type of wheel is the 12" spoke type. It is a steel tubeless rim with 5 large diameter radial spokes. The wheels are the same front to back for both types with the exception of the front wheel on the rear wheel drive only RT-140. It has a large brake disc in place of a sprocket on the front wheel.
On the steel wheels the sprocket is welded on, the aluminum wheels use either bolt on or pressed on sprockets. Here is a picture of the various wheel sprockets. They all use #40 chain. While the 15" wheel is limited in the type of tire available for it the 12" wheel can use any 12" ATV tire up to an 8.50x23x12. As a note, Rokon used two different axle diameters over the years so if you replace your wheel bearings take the old ones with you to the parts store to match them up. Most people prefer to use the sealed type bearing as a replacement.
The Rokon has remained almost unchanged since the beginning. Why mess with it if it ain't broke ? There have been a few changes over the years but basicly there is a lot of interchangability among models and as the Rokon is still in production many parts are still available from the manufacturer. In addition many parts (bearings,seals,gears,motor parts,etc.) can be found at your local auto parts or lawn equipment store. For some of the harder to find or more expensive parts you can advertise in your local paper or search online at various auction or auto-trader sites. There is a "parts wanted" and a "for sale" section at the Rokon World Message Board Forum on Delphi. Here are some other parts links and a list of common parts numbers for things you can buy locally. Rokon International Northwest Rokon-My favorite dealer U.S. Motor Power Graingers On-Line Parts Manuals
u-joint_APEX#20D250. Dave adds this info regarding the replacement joint sold by Rokon.
See rokon or rokon dealer for about $ 200. You get a new configuration that has sealed needle bearings and no bulb seal. Rokon will tell you it is interchangable and can be used on all bikes. That is not quite true --- 1969 bike you may be OK.
I ordered one ........ neat unit. Made overseas I suspect - but nice.
I had a few issues with it.
*older bikes, like my 68 used a straight key in the front of the driveshaft. The bores in the original APEX joint interfaces are only open on one end ----- this configuration captures a straight key. The new joint has the bores open on both ends ...... straight keys are not captured and could fall out. These new joints have to be modified to add a feature (drill hole and use a roll pin) to captivate the straight keys used in older bikes. The alternative to this is to use a new drive line with drift key (self captivating). I can't believe rokon didn't know this ...........
*The other problem I encountered was the distance of the roll pin hole to end of the u-joint (too large). When I placed the u-joint on the front miterbox (stock shafting) the end of the u-joint hit the miterbox before I could line up the holes to install the roll pin. I had to machine off about .020 to get it too work (the end of the u-joint).
These issues didn't bother me too much because I had the capacity to deal with it. I did think how dissapointed I would be if I did not have the capacity to correct the problem. For 200 bucks/per a customer should not have to deal with this ....... especially if he/she is relying on these machines for work and well being. I also feel that I should not have to waist my time in explaining all this to the factory. So i didn't. I'm now shopping for APEX joints.
In the past I have modifyed APEX P/N 3D2012-0012-06C joints. These joints need to be shortened on miterbox end and you have to add roll pin hole. According to the new catalog you could also use 300-D-20-12-6C. This has keyways in both ends (the other one I mention only has keyway in one end). This one also needs to be shortened and have roll pin hole added.
See: ........... www.cooperindustries.com/c_center/index.htm
u-joint boots_Grainger#2A766 lovejoy universal joint boot model D8 upper.
air filter_Case#A11552 (water resistant type). AKOUTDOORS brings us this little tidbit:I went all over Anchorage trying to find replacement air filters for my Rokon. It was looking like it was time to mail order direct from Rokon International. I tried all the auto parts places and several small engine shops to no avail. I even brought the various filter numbers from Rokon web sites. The last small engine shop I went into said he did not have anything like it and his books did not show any cross reference:( I guess he was looking for something to do because he offered to look through his store room for anything similar. Then he said, "how many do you need?" He brought out a couple and also the whole kit including the filter and mounting plates. They are exactly the same. He said he had worked there for years and had never sold one before. His supplier is Wacker. Part numbers are 2005308 for the filter and 2005343 for the kit. The price was about the same as Rokon, but I am now able to buy them directly and not mess with shipping and waiting. He also said he doubted that the Wacker numbers would cross reference to any other manufacturer.
albion trans output seal_ TCM#11162TB.
gas cap_OMC#388933---Stant #11623
Dusty says this: I have a gas cap that fits and looks better than the Stant. It's from Bikers Choice from Nempco. (TR/Nempco #49-0447 Says: Early vented cap. '36-early '73, H.D. single and right fat bob tanks. OEM #: 61103-36, so with that # you can order one from any Harley related shop. The reason I like it better than the Stant is that it looks like a M/C gas cap. It's smaller,flatter and has the grip marks on the outside where you need friction to open it. I haven't tried the leak test because the bike is ready for shipping and all the gas is out of the tank.
I imagine it might leak like the rest of them do but drilling a hole and installing a tube fitting looks easier than on a Stant. It might work alot better because it was designed for a motorcycle and my fatbobs on my old Shovelheads didn't leak. BUT, I didn't used to ride my Shovel up and down the Rubicon...
wheel brgs_NAPA#202-NPP8 (AKOUTDOORS adds this note: I have an early 90's MK7 Trailbreaker with the 15" drum wheels. The wheel bearings are the
same as the miter box bearings. Federal-Mogul 204-BBAR, or General Bearing 8504. Other
possible numbers are Granger 5U492, NTN SC0440 LLC3. The older wheel bearings are much
This just in from RATKILR: ( He has a set of early 12" spoke wheels that are bored 1 5/8 all the way through the hub. DRUMWHEEL says the 12" wheels came both ways, either bored smooth or with an internal step to hold the bearing. The smooth bored hubs require a flanged bearing like RATKILR describes, the stepped bore hubs can use the NAPA style bearing. Also try to use a sealed bearing not a shielded one.) -----
"I finally found a bearing with 3/4" ID, 1 5/8" OD(1.625), .5" width with extended
inner race, dual seals and a flanged outer race of 1 3/4". It is made by General Bearing
Corporation in NY. Part # 32662-88. Has a rated load of 1171 lbs with max speed of 2500
rpms. The only thing is that local distributer had none and had to go factory direct with
minimun order of 10. Packed that way."
fuel shutoff valve "o" ring_#008
throttle w/cable_LeMans pro series#052016.
This info came from DRUMWHEEL, a veritable fount of Rokon knowledge:
"The kits and needle valve is the Viton configuration for compatability with
Alcohols and fuel additives.
The following are part #'s and your price for parts for the HL-173A. "
DG-5HL Diaphragm Gasket Kit $ 6.33@
RK-117HL Complete Rebuild Kit $ 11.75@
EC-001 Needle Valve Springs $ .85@
26-989 Choke Shaft $ 6.51@-(Handle is on needle side but all there is)
13-1592 Throttle Shaft $ 7.48@
179-55 Welch Plug $ .57@
95-174 Fuel Inlet Screen $ .70@
16B-205 Fuel Cover Gasket $ .44@
43-966 High Side Needle $ 6.56@
43-388 Low Side Needle $ 2.56@
44-270 O-Ring $ .60@
EC-217 Flange Gasket $ .44@
233-706 Needle Seat Assembly $ 8.53@
EC-998 Shim Kit $ 7.50@
Another carb kit tip, this time from OURZOO2---I bought a carb kit from napa #7-07122 and it replaces the Tillotson kits DG-2-HL and
the DG-5-HL.also it was only $4.44 including tax. It fit great the only thing the kit didn't have was
needle and seat and the two o-rings that fit around ajustment screws but everthing else fit great.
miter gears_Martin#M1218B (hardened #MH1218B)
miterbox seal_.750x1.375x.250 Federal Mogul#471554----NAPA#7513.
salsbury drive belt_Salsbury#704032---
albion drive belt_Gates#31-260---NAPA#5L290W.
one way clutch bearing_Torrington#RCB-162117-FS. (2BY adds this note:)
The Torrington # RCB 162117 is the exact bearing for the
Mercury Clutch........ Someone had posted
RCB 162117 FS
.....this is the same bearing but it uses stainless springs inside it for
instantaneous lockup. The plain RCB bearing uses "springs" integrally molded with
the cage. I found out that the FS Bearing is not always marked FS......The way to
tell for sure is look at the little plastic cage that holds the middle row of rollers in
place. The FS bearing will always have a RED plastic cage...whether it's marked
FS or not. I
also got hold of the correct shaft size for this bearing if you'd like to mic the shafts
while you have them apart.
Maximum Shaft Dia. 1.0000" Minimum Shaft Dia. .9995
The bearing requires a shaft hardness of 58 HRC or equialent.
AND last but not least....fer you hot-rodder guys.
The Overrun Limiting Speed on this bearing is 8670 !!!!
The RCB 162117 was about $12 at Motion Industries
The RCB 162117 FS was about $22 at Motion
king pin bushings_Boston Bronze#FB1012-6.
18 tooth sprocket_Grainger#1L135
23 tooth sprocket_Grainger#6L863.
26 tooth sprocket_Grainger#6L876.
11 tooth sprocket_Grainger#6L839.
12 tooth sprocket_Grainger#1L110
breaker point set_Rokon #12225 --- Prestolite #1-5029
condenser_Rokon #12326 ---Prestolite #2-5028
brake lever_ Northern#1383-C136
brake cable_ Northern#1384-C136
throttle & grip set_ Northern#1380-C136
throttle control cable_ Northern#1382-C136
throttle cable spring kit_ Northern(cable stops ect.) #2449-C136
Replacement Aquila Seats and Covers... These are Innocetti seats for Lambretta scooters but they are the same as the original Aquila solo seats found on the older Rokons.
Lambertta ,San Diego ,619-229-0201. http://lambretta.net $50.00 for frame and 59$ for cover .
Dee Cooper adds this note: I bought the frames from West Coast Lambretta Works along with the covers.
The frames are exactly the same ones Rokon used. The were from some new old stock
(slight surface rust in places) but a light trip in the blast cabinet and a hit with
Gloss Black paint and they look new. They came with the springs. The numbers I
have from the firm's invoice on my last order are:
Seat Frame Item # 1501.A
Front Saddle Seat Cover, Black Item # 1180.B
Dave sends in this list of woodruff keys:
The single digit number is the old number, the 3 digit number is the new ANSI
number. #5, ANSI# 405, 1/8" X 5/8" Albion pulley key(my favorite key)
#8, ANSI# 506, 5/32" X 3/4" Power Bee key
#9, ANSI# 606, 3/16" X 3/4" Miterbox, U-joint, RT140 & Auto jackshaft key
Drum Wheel Plugs_Drumwheel filler plug size and pitch:
Original (pre Chinese) 1 3/8 inch -18
Chinese wheels 36mm-1.5
Note- they look very very close in size and pitch, so don't screw-up (pun intended), one of
your wheels by using the wrong size wheel plug. (thanks to Eddie for the info)
Here is a list of parts from Napa that was submitted by 2BY.
Wheel Bearing for 12" steel wheel........NAPA # P204RR6
Blue Atom(for WestBend)......NAPA #...7-01751.......about $11.00
Universal Omega(Atom)(for 2 strokes)(2 in a pack)....NAPA #...7-01749...about
Bronze Steering Head Bushing....NAPA #...7-04279....about $1.50
#40 Chain (10 ft lenght).....NAPA #...7-06101...about $2.40 per ft.
Small GoKart/Minibike Caliper....NAPA #...7-06056...about $9.00
Mitten Handed Yanker Handle..NAPA #...7-04896...about $2.50
#2 Mitten Yanker Handle...NAPA#...7-05097...about $3.00
FREEING STUCK OR RUSTY PARTS
Chances are ,if you bought an older bike, that something has welded itself to something else. Let's face it, some of those bolts haven't had a wrench on them for years. And parts like brake rotors and pullys that are a slip fit can lock tight from sitting. So here are a few "Indian Tricks" that will usually work:
Penetrating Oil---Make sure you use penetrating oil and not a moisture displacer like WD40. There are a lot of different brands available and they all have their fans. Wire brush all the rust you can reach and soak it down, let it sit awhile and soak it again. Then give it a couple of sharp raps with a hammer and soak it again. When you are ready to try loosening the bolt, alternate loosening and tightening the bolt. Back it out a few threads,soak it and turn it back in. Keep doing this a few turns at a time until it is out. Then run a thread tap in the hole and replace the bolt with a new one coated with anti-sieze compound (available at parts stores).
Heat---Sometimes a little heat is necessary to make a part budge. The theory here is that the heat expands the metal causing it to loosen. If it is a bolt,heat the area around the bolt,not the bolt itself. If it is a brake rotor,heat the collar of the rotor,not the disc or shaft. Never heat a part to the point of getting it cherry red. Also be careful around fuel,oil or plastic. And oh yeah, don't grab a part with your bare hand after heating it.
Pullers---There are tools called pullers available that can be real handy. Some have fingers that grip around the part with a threaded bolt in the center to exert force. Some are shaped like a split disc that you put behind the part to be pulled, if it has little space behind it, and you grip it with a finger puller. There is also an impact type puller that is used to pull the flywheel from the motor, it looks like a long nut you screw on the end of the crankshaft and strike with a hammer to loosen the flywheel.
Hammer and Chisel---Not for the squeamish. Sometimes you have to destroy a part to remove it. Place the chisel at an angle against the edge of the bolt or nut at a right angle to the head. Now with a prayer to the Knuckle Gods hit the chisel so that it tries to turn the head in the direction to loosen it (righty tighty,lefty loosy). Count your fingers.
Easy-Out---I don't know how they came up with this name cause I never found them very easy. If you break a bolt trying to get it out, sometimes this tool will get out whats left. There are two common types of Easy-Out, one looks like a tapered screw with backward threads and the other is a square tapered punch with sharp sides. Either one will work but get a GOOD one. If you break it off in the bolt you are well and truely screwed. To use it you drill a hole down the CENTER of the broken bolt. Now we know that puppy is stuck tight or the head wouldn't have broken off in the first place. So before putting any force on the Easy-Out, soak what's left of the bolt with penetrating oil and shoot a little heat around it. Make sure the tool is not in the bolt during heating. Then insert the tool in the hole and CAREFULLY try to back it out. If it still won't budge we go to the last and most drastic step>
Drilling and Blasting---O.K. not blasting, but at this point you probably would if you could. As a last resort you can drill out the old bolt to the proper tap size and retap the threads in the hole. Unfortunately it is damned near impossible to drill out a broken bolt and keep the drillbit centered in the old hole. Sometimes it helps to start with a small bit and gradually work your way up. Before you start drilling,take a sharp pointed punch and put a dimple as close to centered as possible to help guide the drill. Good Luck and may The Force be with you.
UPGRADES & MODIFICATIONS
There are a lot of things owners have done to improve or personalize their bikes. Mark Peterson has collected quite a few of them at his   ROcKONLINE TEMPORARILY OFF-LINE :-(  site.