This site is in no way affiliated with,connected to,indorsed or recognized by
Rokon™ International (a great bunch of guys) the manufacturer of Rokon™ motorcycles.

I gathered this information from a number of sources. Some of it came from folks who have been riding Rokons™ since before they were called Rokons™. I have provided links to some sites that are must reads for anyone interested in the Rokon™. This site is not intended to answer every question a person might have but is rather intended to hit the high points of the most frequently asked questions. DUH...

how do you pronounce Rokon™

how does it work

oil/fuel ratio

sparkplug type&gap

tire pressure

miterbox/trans oil type&level

what year or model is it

what kind of motor does it use

correct color

what's it worth

how fast will it go

tire type&size

parts sources

freeing stuck or rusty parts

upgrading motor/chassis

Rokon™ links

MKlll Owners Manual



PENDING   driveline troubleshooting

PENDING   motor troubleshooting

Here it is from the horses mouth. The following letter was posted to the Rokon World Message Board Forum by Orla Larsen, the founder of Rokon™.
Orla 5:35 PM Friday January 22, 1999 To my buddy SYCO: "When starting the new company to build the TBs I wanted to get a catchy name like Radar or similar, spelled the same front or back. I had been a professional skier in Canada and had the opportunity to come to the US and start a new ski area in Vermont, We called it Mt. Snow (actually it was named after the owner of the land-Reuben Snow) after getting the ski area going, (I was the general manager and also ski school director) and it became VERY successful, I built a lodge to cater to the winter and summer business. During the excavation for the main building, the gentleman that we bought the land from came by to have a look at what we were doing. There were piles of rocks heaped all over the place from the excavation, and the original land owner said (man this place is really on the rocks) so that is what we named our lodge. When I was looking for a name for the new TB company I bastardized On The Rocks to ROCKON, but it did not look good in print, so I changed it to ROKON and that is how it all got started. Sorry about temporally impaired people that pronounce it ROWKON, but then the good lord told us to be tolerant!! "
For an excellent story on the history of the Rokon™ click HERE

The ankle bones' connected to the shin bone, the shin bones' connected to the knee bone........
O.K., let me see if I can explain this. There is a little difference in the bits between the pre 74 model with the Albion transmission and the post 74 model with the plunger transmission but basicly they work the same. Power is transmitted by the motor which is connected to the transmission through a belt drive system. Pre 74 uses a centrifigal engine mounted clutch with a one-way bearing (to accomodate the kick starter) connected to a pully on the input shaft of the transmission. Post 74 uses a Salasbury variable ratio torque convertor system. It has spring loaded ramped pullys that change the primary drive ratio up or down depending on engine speed and vehicle load. Power enters the 3 speed transmission and is transferred via chain on the pre 74 to the rear miter box or in the post 74 through internal gears to the internal miter gears. Still with me ? From there the power is split equally between an output shaft with a sprocket and chain drive to the rear wheel and another output shaft located in the hollow backbone of the frame that drives the front miter box. There is a one-way spring clutch assembly (over-ride spring) located on the output shaft connecting it to the drive shaft that runs forward. The purpose of this assembly is to allow the front wheel to turn faster than the rear wheel so the drive train doesn't bind up while turning since the front wheel has to travel farther hence faster to make the turn. It works kinda like a chinese finger trap. There is a double u-joint between the drive shaft and the front miter box at the steering head pivot point. I've put together a graphic below that shows the layout in both versions. Click on any of the blue links to bring up an exploded view of that component. You can click HERE for a another view of the drivetrain layout for the pre 73 bikes or HERE for the post 73 bikes.

ImageMap - turn on images!!!

The subject of the proper oil/fuel ratio is probably the NUMBER ONE question that everyone asks and nobody can agree on. The latest owners manual recommends 40:1. However "in the field" Rokonites are running ratios from 16:1 all the way to 100:1 depending on the type of oil (regular or synthetic) and the time of month. Three things you never want to discuss in polite company are : Religion, Politics and What mix do you recommend?
You would be safe to run a good grade of 2-stroke oil (chainsaw,outboard or motorcycle) at 20:1. A synthetic should be safe at around 50:1. Your milage may vary.

The stock plug for the 2-stroke motor is a Champion L90-C Copper Plus. Recently Champion changed the stock number of the L90-C to #896. You can use any brand you prefer that crosses to this number. Gap is .030.

4 to 5 p.s.i.
As with most things related to Rokon™ maintenence this is subjective. Since the Rokon™ doesn't have a suspension system it relies on the "squish" of its' tires to smooth out bumps. The higher the pressure the harsher the ride but it steers a little better. The lower the pressure the softer the ride but it steers "mushier". Low pressures can be an asset in sand or mud as it increases the "foot print" area of the tire. You can run on a flat if you have to but you will likely destroy the inner tube in a drum wheel or come off the rim with a spoke wheel. You can buy a low pressure tire guage at most all motorcycle shops and some lawn and garden shops.

Here's another subject that borders on voo-doo. The new manual for the plunger type trannies recommends 90w gear oil. The old manuals for the Albion trannies says a 50/50 mix of 30W and chassis grease. Some folks are adding STP or using high dollar synthetic racing lube. These are low speed motorcycles with low speed gearboxes. Just about anything you put in them that is oily and won't dribble out will lubricate them. The correct level for the miterboxes is half way of the cross shaft (viewed through the fill hole in the top. If you overfill them the excess pressure will force the lube out the seals. The plunger trans has a level plug on the back a couple of inches from the bottom. Take out the plug and add lube through the top plug until it runs out the level plug hole. The Albion has a filler cap on the side by the kicker. Fill it up to the bottom of the threads.

Over the lifespan of the motorcycle we call a Rokon™ it has had many names and a few different manufacturers. Naturally the systems used for numbering or identifying them is pretty screwed up. Bob Gallager otherwise known as ROKONBOB the founder of the Rokon World web site is making a valiant effort to untangle the mess. If you contact him and provide the chassis number (stamped into the top of the frame under the seat) he might be able to help you to identify it. He also has a good I.D. guide on his web site that lists all the different models. A couple of major changes happened in 74. The transmission was changed from a kick start 3 speed Albion with a side mounted hand shifter to a plunger style transmission with built in rear miter gears. The Albion (which was a small English motorcycle transmission designed in the 30s) used a separate chain driven rear miterbox. Other changes included the addition of a rear disc brake attached to the rear miterbox shaft and a change from a centrifigal clutch primary drive to a Salsbury variable ratio torque converter type drive. This drive was also used on the "MK3-Automatic" model with a jackshaft mounted in place of a transmission. This is also the drive configuration of the RT-140 model. In 77 the gas tank was changed to a plastic type with a single bolt mounting system and the 82031 engine was used instead of the 82007. The 82031 is equipped with electronic ignition and an AC lighting coil. The basic models are:

Back in the early 60s when the bike was first manufactured as the Nethercutt MK1 it used a Maico and then later a JLO motor. During the last few years under Nethercutt the switch was made to the Chrysler Power Bee 82007 motor that endured until the early 80s when it was replaced by the U.S. Motors 82031 motor. They are both 136cc and rated at 10 HP. The Power Bee design was used in many different applications. Rail saws,generators,dirt compactors,power drills,jack hammers and chainsaws to name a few. Here is an application table showing some of the equipment that use this motor. This is one tough little motor. Chrysler stopped production of the Power Bee and sold the rights to U.S. Motors. Most people feel the old Chryslers were built to tighter tolerances. The 82031 has electronic ignition and an AC lighting coil but is otherwise the same motor. Recently Rokon™ has begun to offer a choice of either the Honda or Kohler 4-stroke motor. These are basicly small stationary motors usually found in generators or lawn equipment. They are quieter than the 2-stroke motors plus you don't have to mix oil with the gas. There is some talk that Rokon™ will quit offering a 2-stroke motor due to enviromental regulations.

The actual real keerect color codes are lost in the mists of time. The Nethercutt was a deep forest green (tank&frame). The original Trail Breaker was yellow (tank&frame). The Scout was orange with a silver frame. The Aqua Track was green with yellow wheels. Newer bikes (early 80s to present) are available in red w/silver frame,all black,all green or a new camo color.Here are a few colors that come close to the original:

Well, it's worth exactly what someone would pay for it. New ones are $4500 to $5500. EBAY has them from $400 beaters to $5000 new/used. Plus shipping. Right now $1500 to $2500 is a good price on a GOOD older bike (runs,good tires,not beat up etc.) If you are in the market for a used Rokon™ there are a few things you want to look for :

Not very. 15 to 20 mph high gear wide open throttle. You can add a larger carb and taller gears and if you're not too big a fella you can get it up to around 25mph. Of course the whole point of the Rokon™ is to get you there no matter where "there" is. Remember the Tortoise and the Hare.

The Rokon™ comes with a choice of 3 wheel types. The most common type is a 15" tube type aluminum drum wheel that can hold 4.5 gal of your choice of liquid (gas,water,scotch, etc.) or be left empty to provide flotation. The most common size tire is the 6.70x15 Goodyear Shur-Trac implement tire. This is the familiar "V" lug tractor tire. Recently Goodyear has come out with another tread design in this tire that has a little better "side" traction, it is a 5.90X15 and has a "cup" tread design. Recently Rokon has introduced a "12 aluminum drum wheel as an option. The other type of wheel is the 12" spoke type. It is a steel tubeless rim with 5 large diameter radial spokes. The wheels are the same front to back for both types with the exception of the front wheel on the rear wheel drive only RT-140. It has a large brake disc in place of a sprocket on the front wheel. On the steel wheels the sprocket is welded on, the aluminum wheels use either bolt on or pressed on sprockets. Here is a picture of the various wheel sprockets. They all use #40 chain. While the 15" wheel is limited in the type of tire available for it the 12" wheel can use any 12" ATV tire up to an 8.50x23x12. As a note, Rokon used two different axle diameters over the years so if you replace your wheel bearings take the old ones with you to the parts store to match them up. Most people prefer to use the sealed type bearing as a replacement.

The Rokon™ has remained almost unchanged since the beginning. Why mess with it if it ain't broke ? There have been a few changes over the years but basicly there is a lot of interchangability among models and as the Rokon™ is still in production many parts are still available from the manufacturer. In addition many parts (bearings,seals,gears,motor parts,etc.) can be found at your local auto parts or lawn equipment store. For some of the harder to find or more expensive parts you can advertise in your local paper or search online at various auction or auto-trader sites. There is a "parts wanted" and a "for sale" section at the Rokon World Message Board Forum on Delphi. Here are some other parts links and a list of common parts numbers for things you can buy locally.
Rokon International
Northwest Rokon-My favorite dealer
U.S. Motor Power
On-Line Parts Manuals

Here is a list of parts from Napa that was submitted by 2BY.

Chances are ,if you bought an older bike, that something has welded itself to something else. Let's face it, some of those bolts haven't had a wrench on them for years. And parts like brake rotors and pullys that are a slip fit can lock tight from sitting. So here are a few "Indian Tricks" that will usually work:

There are a lot of things owners have done to improve or personalize their bikes. Mark Peterson has collected quite a few of them at his   ROcKONLINE TEMPORARILY OFF-LINE :-(  site.

Besides the above parts links there are only two really good sites out there. They are:
Bob Gallagers Rokon World
and maybe
Manyringding-The One Legged Scout

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